Dal Lake, houseboats, Mughal gardens, the old city and the best things to do in Srinagar.
Srinagar
3 min read
A snowy night on a Srinagar houseboat is unforgettable if the boat is warm. How houseboats are heated, what to ask before booking and when to choose a hotel instead.
2 min read
Dal Lake freezes partly in hard cold spells, and fully only in rare historic winters. When it happens, what it looks like and why you should never walk on the ice.
Floating shops will paddle up to your shikara selling kahwa, saffron, flowers, fruit, jewellery and crafts. What is worth buying, fair prices and how to say no politely.
Old Srinagar is a museum of wood: brick-and-timber houses, carved balconies, lattice windows and ceilings fitted without nails. What to look for on a walk.
Kashmir's carved cedar houseboats began as a workaround to a land rule and became an icon. How they started, how they are built and how to choose one today.
Before sunrise, farmers paddle their produce out onto Dal Lake to trade from boat to boat. How to visit the floating market respectfully, timing and what to expect.
Same houseboats, fewer crowds. How Nigeen differs from Dal, choosing a houseboat there, shikara routes between the two lakes and who should stay where.
The hill crowning old Srinagar holds a Mughal-era wall, an Afghan fort and shrines revered by Muslims, Hindus and Sikhs. How to visit and when the views are best.
Srinagar's coldest 40 days have their own rituals: pherans, kangris, harissa at dawn and snow on the houseboats. How to enjoy the city from December to February.
Gulmarg, Sonamarg, Doodhpathri, Yusmarg, Pahalgam and the saffron fields of Pampore: the best day trips from Srinagar, with drive times and tips.
Asia's largest tulip garden blooms in Srinagar for a few weeks each spring. When it opens, how to plan your visit and how to beat the crowds.
A self-guided walk through Srinagar's old city (Shehr-e-Khaas): Jamia Masjid, Khanqah-e-Moula, Jhelum bridges, spice markets and old wooden houses.
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