Kashmiri Food
3 min read
Harissa at dawn, sun-dried vegetables stored since autumn, dried fish, noon chai and kahwa: the dishes that get Kashmir through winter, and where to try them.
2 min read
Barbecue lanes, lotus stem fritters, spicy chickpea snacks and warm bakery treats. A guide to Srinagar's street food, where to find it and how to eat safely.
Slow-cooked overnight and sold from dawn in old Srinagar's shops, harissa is Kashmir's most beloved winter dish. What it is, when to eat it and how to enjoy it.
Kashmir is famous for lamb, but its vegetarian cooking is just as distinctive. The dishes to order, what makes them Kashmiri and how to eat well as a vegetarian.
Golden green tea with saffron, cardamom, cinnamon and almonds, poured from a samovar. What goes into kahwa, how to brew it at home and how to buy a good mix.
Kashmiris buy fresh bread twice a day. Girda, lavasa, kulcha, bakarkhani, sheermal and tsochvoru: what each one is, when it is eaten and how to order.
Pink, salty, creamy and drunk several times a day. How noon chai is made, why it turns pink, how it differs from kahwa, and how to enjoy it like a local.
Beyond rogan josh: the meatballs, lotus stems, pink tea, bakery breads and winter specials that make Kashmiri food so distinctive, including vegetarian favourites.
A wedding-sized banquet of slow-cooked lamb, shared from a copper platter. What wazwan is, the dishes that matter, the etiquette, and where travellers can try it.
